bhaktapur

From there participants will go to Bhaktapur- 16 kilometers west of Kathmandu. A well preserved city within the valley, Bhaktapur has a completely different feel than the other two city centers of Kathmandu and Patan within the valley.  It is said to be the best representation of what life was like in medieval Nepal during the Newari Malla leadership.   Though much of the city and temples were destroyed during the earthquake of 1934, it has been fabulously rebuilt and preserved in part in collaboration with German sponsors and in part with fees collected to visit the ancient city.   Surrounding open air squares boasting huge temples and the former royal residency of this once separate kingdom narrow paths meander in all directions through tight alleyways and courtyards of the predominately Newar city.  

At such a distance from the other city centers Bhaktapur is a fairly self-sufficient center.   Famous for their ability to grow a high yield of produce per square meter of land, the Jhapu farmers of Bhaktapur sell their produce at the squares and temples in open air markets.   Not far from such centers, Potter’s Square showcases one of the city’s various crafts with artisans spinning and firing their wares in a time honored tradition.   Newars are an extremely tight knit group where life centers around the family and guthi (social or religious community group), though food could be an arguable alternative.   Each in its own way makes up the community that is the Newars of Bhaktapur.

Entering Bhaktapur from the East one first enters to the open area of Durbar Square.   Though itself a victim of the earthquake, the result is a large brick expanse that opens up to the former palace.   The palace entry itself is adorned with the famous sun dhokaa (gold door) while a statue of Bupathindra Malla faces the compound opposite atop a large stone pillar.   The inner walkway of the old palace leads one around to another compound that houses the local Taleju and Kumari temples.   Though only Hindus are allowed inside, guards will allow a peak in from the outside.   The intricate wood carving that tops the door as a present from a former king to his queen is enough to hold one’s attention for some time.   Past this courtyard is another used as the former Malla kings’ sacred bathing ground.   Once adorned with beautiful stone and metal carvings, many of the original art pieces have been stolen and sold to private collectors abroad.   However, one can still observe part of this area’s ancient glory in the metalwork naga (serpent) that rises out of the water to face another on the edge of the tank.  

Towards the center of Bhaktapur at Taumadhi Tol, the five tiered temple Nyatapola rises high above its surroundings as the largest temple in the Kathmandu Valley.   Dedicated to the goddess Siddhi Laxmi in 1702 by King Bupathindra Malla, the stairs up the mandir are protected by stone carved guards of increasing strength with the intelligent powers of goddesses being the most formidable at the top.   Interestingly, some Nepalis will argue that the pagoda style, such as seen at Nyatapola and famous in Chinese architecture, originated in Nepal.   At a corner to Nyatapola the Bhairavnath Mandir is another prominent feature of the area.   The two temples are said to balance eachother’s power.   As Bhairav was said to have been beheaded on site in Bhaktapur, the goddesses at the Nyatapola temple are present to appease the furious deity.