swyambhunath

We will then go to the Western edge of Kathmandu’s Ring Road, where the Buddhist stupa compound of Swyambhunath stretches atop a hill overlooking the cityscape.   Arriving from the Eastern entrance visitors must climb the 300+ steps aligned with Buddhist images and carvings from the 17 ^th century, as well as throngs of monkeys roaming through the adjoining forest, before the final steep climb to the looming stupa.   Originating more than 2,500 years ago, the sage Manjushree observed a lotus on the site of this once lake filled valley and proclaimed it a sacred site.   The same sage is responsible for striking the Southeast hills of the valley at Chobar with a sword to drain the lake leaving an immensely fertile valley, and easier access to this pilgrimage site.

The main feature of the compound, the stupa, is a visual representation of the path toward enlightenment.   The base dome represents the world, and opens to the eyes of the Buddha which adorn all four sides of a square above.   Rising vertically from the cube thirteen cylindrical tiers represent the thirteen necessary steps of gradual awakening to Nirvana.   Stepping back from the stupa, the hill offers an overlook from which to view the expansive valley and cityscape.       

Though a center for Tibetan and Newari Buddhism, Swyambhu is an important Hindu site as well and draws pilgrims from both religions.   Many come to worship at the Harati Mandir located just behind the main stupa for the protection of their children.   Chaityas, or small stupas, have been erected throughout the compound in remembrance of departed kin.   In accordance with ahimsa , non-violence, in relative recent history a flame of peace has been added towards the backside of the compound.   Adorning the surroundings of the stupa, monasteries large and small dot the landscape.